I'm a railroad brat. My grandfather was Yardmaster for the Milwaukee Road so I grew up riding the rails - many trips being between Milwaukee and the Twin Cities on the Hiawatha.
Hi, I'm Pat and welcome to my blog, Life's A Trip!
I love traveling, food and getting a great deal on anything - which is what this blog is about.
I'll share not only my travel destinations including accommodations, dining hot spots, and top (and weird!) travel attractions with you - but how to make any trip more budget friendly.
'm a paragraph. Click here to add your own text and edit me. It's easy.
I married another railroad brat whose father worked for the B&O Railroad in Ohio. We spent our honeymoon
at the Baltimore Railroad Museum and then joined an HO model railroading club upon our return home. We built on HO train setup downstairs. We were both nuts about trains so no surprise we decided to take a trip across Canada by rail - and splurge big time in the process.
.jpg)
If you're going to take a train excursion that's more than a few hours or a day long, then I highly recommend contacting Vacations By Rail and working with one of their agents to tailor fit your trip to you.
canada
I mention this because it was many years ago hubby and I took our Canadian rail trip and in researching this article I was reading TripAdvisor customer reviews on it. Many are complaining they experienced significant delays when they took the trip recently. I investigated this and learned VIA Rail does not own the track it operates on. It rents them from the Crown, which is primarily a freight hauler. Therefore, the freight trains have priority over passenger trains and this is what causes the delays. Hubby and I did not experience any signifcant delays...but if you're in a hurry, you might want to book a different train excursion.
PRESTIGE JOURNEY ACROSS CANADA
We booked the Prestige Journey Across Canada 11 day excursion through 8 Canadian provinces. This remarkable journey travels from the West Coast to the East (or vice versa, both options are available). The great thing about this trip is that you see scenery in the Rocky Mountain area you wouldn't likely see except by train.
The trip begins in Vancouver, a spectacular coastal city between the deep blue Pacific and breathtaking rainforest and mountain scenes. We enjoyed a day to explore its endless contrasts before boarding VIA Rail's Canadian for our rail journey through the majestic Rocky Mountains and across the Canadian Shield to Toronto. We visited Niagara Falls as well. Stays in centrally located hotels and a wonderful mixture of guided sightseeing and leisure time allow you to connect with each location. Our trip would conclude in Toronto.
There are 3 'classes' of travel available: Economy, Sleeper Plus and Prestige. This was a once-in-a-lifetime trip for us so hubby and I splurged and booked Prestige class. We were glad we spent the money to do this.
Booking Prestige class included:
-
Tour Manager
-
Expertise of a Tour Manager from start to finish
-
-
Transportation
-
All rail and coach travel throughout your tour
-
Private transfer to Vancouver rail station
-
4 nights in Prestige Class aboard VIA Rail’s Canadian
-
-
Accommodation
-
4 nights’ 5-Star hotel accommodation
-
-
Excursions & Entertainment
-
All tour excursions
-
-
Food & Drink
-
4 breakfasts, 4 lunches, 4 dinners
-
-
Flights and airport transfers
-
Private airport transfers
-
The only things not covered were our flights to and from Canada, meals outside of the train and trip insurance.
Note that travel agencies often buy up Prestige Class inventory during the peak summer period, so you may need to go through a travel agency if you’re unable to book directly.
The other 2 classes available on our specific trip were Economy and Sleeper Plus.
Economy is definitely no frills and I wouldn't suggest booking Economy except for very short trips because you do not get a bed with Economy. The seats recline slightly and you sleep in your seat.
That may be okay for an overnight trip but I certainly wouldn't want to sleep in a train seat for 4 nights or more.
Nor does Economy class include meals. Economy passengers can purchase food but expect cups of noodles and microwaveable mac 'n cheese. Basically, you get what you pay for and there's quite a $$ range between various class packages.
Sleeper Plus is an economical way to go in that you basically get most of the amenities included in Prestige passage. One, two, three and 4 person accommodations are available. The drawbacks are your cabin is very tight, you share a shower with all passengers on the Super Plus cars that are located at the end of the train car, you do not get dining priority nor concierge service.
The biggest drawback is that your beds are bunk bed style births with privacy curtains that are basically located on a walkway through the car.
Lower berths have a window, upper berths do not and some Sleeper Plus passengers told me this made them feel claustrophobic and disoriented. Having a lower berth with a window will cost you approximately $200 more.
A cabin for 1 is actually a bunk bed arrangement berth with privacy curtain. Essentially you're sleeping in a walkway. However, there is a private toilet but it supports the weight of the bed when the seat is folded down to convert into a bed.
During the day the beds convert to bench seating, usually while you’re at breakfast service, and then back in the evening during dinner service. You will have access to the Prestige Park Car but only after 5 p.m.
Sleeper Plus folded out lower berth bed
Other amenities for in a Cabin for One include a mirror, fan, air conditioning, drinking water and towels, pillows, sheets and blankets, as well as a 110V AC outlet.
In a Cabin for Two, the setup and amenities are similar: you have two comfortable chairs during the day that are then converted into beds at night (bunk style, like in the berths).
You get all the same amenities as in the Cabin for One, plus some extra bonuses like a small closet in the cabins for two, and a toilet that’s actually in its own tiny ensuite.
There is also a cabin for for three that is set up in a similar fashion, with one sofa and two chairs during the day that become three beds (one upper and two lower) at night.
Lastly, there’s a Cabin for four option that’s essentially two combined cabins for two with the dividing partitions removed.
The perks of Sleeper Plus Class:
-
At ~$1,200 it was $1,000(!) cheaper than a private cabin.
-
It includes all meals.
-
It includes access to showers, to the Panorama Car, and Prestige Park Car
PRESTIGE CLASS
-
A larger cabin (said to be 50% larger than the regular cabin for two)
-
Larger windows (said to be 60% larger than the regular cabin for two)
-
A modular L-shaped couch
-
An actual double bed (Murphy bed, but still!) rather than upper/lower berth beds
-
A private washroom with a shower
-
A flat-screen monitor with video selection (There is no WIFI for 4 days)
-
A minibar stocked with your choice of beverages
-
All inclusive food, snacks, and beverages (including alcohol)
-
A concierge w/ turndown service and enhanced amenities
-
Access to lounges in Vancouver and Toronto both upon departure and arrival
The Prestige car
This was a once-in-a-lifetime trip for hubby and I so we splurged on Prestige class since we'd be spending a considerable amount of time on the train. Prestige class will cost around $16,000 per person both ways, depending on how you tailor your trip. It's definitely not inexpensive but we were glad we'd spent the money. Not only were we far more comfortable but our Fresh Tracks agent ensured our trip went off without a hitch and everything was handled and arranged for us. Plus we could individually tailor our trip according to what we wanted to see and do along the way.
We flew into Vancouver and spent the night there, where we'd board The Canadian to begin our rail journey.
accommodations
All of our accommodations were at 5 star Fairmont Hotels:
Fairmont Hotel in downtown Vancouver
Fairmont Jasper Park Lodge in Jasper
In each of the hotels we had a Fairmont Gold King Suite.
Fairmont Vancouver Suite
Each of the hotels offered virtually any amenity you could want and all included numerous in-hotel restaurants at which to eat. I'd give the Fairmont Hotels a big thumbs up.
We had some time to sightsee in Vancouver. While I'd been there before, hubby hadn't so I showed him some of the sights.
DON'T MISS IN VANCOUVER
Stanley Park
Stanley Park is Vancouver's largest and most popular park. Explore the 400-hectare natural West Coast rainforest and enjoy scenic views of water, mountains, sky, and majestic trees along Stanley Park's famous Seawall. Discover kilometres of trails, beautiful beaches, local wildlife, great eats, natural, cultural and historical landmarks, along with many other adventures. The park offers a wide range of unforgettable experiences for all ages and interests, including Canada’s largest aquarium.
We took a horsedrawn carriage ride to see the park.
Vancouver Aquarium (in Stanley Park)
Canada's largest aquarium.
Gastown
The best things to do in Gastown are a great reflection of the area’s vagrant past and trendy, sophisticated present. This historic charm and pioneer spirit make it Vancouver’s answer to New York City’s Lower East Side or London’s Shoreditch.
Be sure to catch a photo op with the old steam clock.
Gastown with old steam clock
Vancouver Half-Day Whale Watching Adventure
Watch for orcas, humpbacks, and other marine wildlife on a half-day whale-watching tour from Vancouver. Unlike open-air speed boats, this heated catamaran has indoor and outdoor viewing decks so you’ll enjoy a comfortable trip in any weather. Onboard naturalist guides will fill you in on animal identification, natural history, and more, all while you soak up the idyllic Pacific Northwest scenery. Trip lasts 5 hours.
Avoid the hassle of renting a car with this day trip that shows off BC's fjords, inlets, and mountains, with included transportation and a ride on the Sea to Sky Gondola.
A guide provides commentary on the drive, and you'll enjoy photo stops as well as free time in Whistler Village.
The Granville Island Public Market is the jewel in the Island’s crown. An indoor market featuring a fascinating assortment of colourful food, produce stores and farmers stalls, all fresh from the ocean, the oven or the field. Market Artisans showcase locally made, handcrafted products and the very finest in unique goods.
It's just fun to stroll through!
After taking in the Vancouver sights, we decided to take it easy and just have dinner in one of the hotel's restaurants, Notch8.
I had chicken schnitzel - a new one on me! It was delicious!
Our Prestige package did include dinner as well as a private guided tour of Vancouver. But since I knew what hubby would be interested in seeing or not seeing, we decided to explore on our own and forego the guided tour.
day 2
Another couple in the hotel had recommended we try the Breakfast Buffet at Notch8 so we did. O...M...G! It seemed like the buffet tables full of food went on for miles! I'd never seen a breakfast buffet to equal this one. I'd never seen any buffet to equal this one!
If you stay at Fairmont Downtown Vancouver you do not want to miss this buffet! The food was excellent and the buffet offered any kind of food you could think of. We ate so much that neither of us were hungry by the time lunch time rolled around so we skipped lunch.
Early that afternoon we met our arranged private hotel to train station transfer.
If you're American, the Vancouver train station may confuse you momentarily as a big sign on the building says "Pacific Central" - but you're in the right place.
On Day 2 you'd travel through British Columbia and see lush farmland and berry fields, winding river canyons, and pristine forests.
You'd spend that night on the train.
After settling into our suite we took a tour of the train - which is quite long.
There are common spaces like the lounge cars and dome cars.
I was surprised to see the train even had a gaming car in which one could play board games and chess.
The food was much better than I expected it to be given the chefs are working in tight quarters, are pushing out at each mealtime food for around 120 diners per dining car per meal over three seatings, all while the train is rocking back and forth.
We both ordered the prime rib with twice baked potato and veggies for dinner.
We had cheesecake with strawberry filling for dessert.
Both were scrumptious.
After dinner we headed for the Park Car. This is the Priority Class lounge and bar. Drinks were included in our Priority fare and again, were better than I expected them to be. Service was outstanding.
When we retired to our suite, we discovered the concierge had turned down our bed for us.
Train personnel will also make up your bed in the morning but I instructed them to just leave the bed as it was. It's more comfortable lying on the bed to watch the scenery go by.
Another tip: The water temperature in the shower was difficult to control although the pressure was good. However, shower in the morning so you have plenty of hot water!
day 3
On day 3 we traveled through the province of Alberta with a 2 night stop over in Jasper including a private guided tour of Jasper National Park and the following day, a trip to Banff.
I'm glad we got the chance to do this as just recently much of Jasper Natl. Forest and the town of Jasper itself was destroyed by fire.
I hope the town of Jasper rebuilds as it was a neat little town. What VIA will do as far as changing Jasper as one of its stops is anyone's guess. But I'll show you what it was like as we saw it before the fire.
The town of Jasper was tiny. You could easily walk the entire town half a dozen times within a day's time. What I loved about it was that it was a quaint little town with a real sense of community among its inhabitants. Yes, it was a tourist trap...but it didn't have the feel of a tourist trap.
There was no public transportation at all but you don't need a car to see much of Jasper and the surrounding area.
If you don't have a guided tour of Jasper National Park included in your rail package, you can book a guided tour in town that provides transportation between the attraction and your lodging.
Here are some options:
-
Wildlife & Waterfalls Tour with Maligne Lake Cruise: This tour takes you through the beautiful Maligne Canyon, with stops to see thundering waterfalls and Medicine Lake, before a 90-minute scenic cruise on Maligne Lake.
-
Jasper National Park Easy 2-Hour Rafting Trip: This relaxed rafting trip takes you down the Athabasca River in Jasper National Park, where you may spot elks, deer, moose, coyotes, wolves, eagles, ospreys, mountain sheep, and bears from the safety of your raft. The guides do all the rowing too, so this is perfect if you’re not interested in a full-on physical adventure!
-
Athabasca Falls White Water Rafting Adventure: For those who do want to challenge themselves a bit, this Class 2 white water rafting trip will definitely get the adrenaline pumping. There are also relaxed sections where you may spot wildlife in between navigating river rapids.
-
Maligne Canyon Icewalk Discovery Tour: On this tour, you’ll get to visit the bottom of the deepest accessible canyon in Jasper National Park, which is filled with frozen waterfalls, ice caves and ice formations.
There are a lot of shops in town for you to buy everything from outdoorsy gear to the most aggressively Canadian knick knacks you can find. Be sure to duck into a few of the souvenir shops (touristy as they seem). I found some items I never expected to find in a souvenir shop.
If you like sweet treats then don’t miss out on Candy Bears’ Lair - a candy shop.
Grab a photo op at the 2 Brothers Totem Pole.
The Two Brothers Totem Pole represents the story of a journey once made by two Haida brothers from Haida Gwaii on the B.C. coast to the Rocky Mountains.
This totem pole was carved by two brothers, Jaalen and Gwaai Edenshaw, which is quite fitting.
Go on a food tour.
There's not a whole lot of activities in downtown Jasper but this tour for instance takes visitors to four of the best restaurants in Jasper, where you get to enjoy local dishes and drink pairings. It’s also a great way to learn more about the town from a local guide.
Go for a walk along the train tracks toward the north side of town. Especially at sunset, the views of the mountains are absolutely amazing, and the path has several info-boards for you to read along the way.
Just be on the lookout for wildlife like elk to follow you.
Book a photography tour.
Jasper National Park is hands down one of the most beautiful parts of Canada, so if you’re a keen shutterbug and want to explore the park’s epic landscapes with an emphasis on photography, then consider booking a photo tour on your visit.
Jasper Photo Tours offers several different experiences, ranging from an introduction to photography, experiences to help you capture better night photos or wildlife photos and even a phone photography tour for those who don’t like to travel with a massive camera!
Exploring Jasper National Park
Because time was short, we booked a 3 hour whitewater rafting trip with Athabasca Falls White Water Rafting Adventure.
While Jasper National Park is known as a hiking and nature wonderland, accessing most of the top trails does require a car.
There are a few notable and worthwhile walks departing from the town center, including…
-
Jasper Discovery Trail: This trail is actually split into three sections and helps visitors explore the town of Jasper. If you do the entire thing it covers 8.3km with signs, maps, markers and kiosks along the way.
-
Red Squirrel Trail: This short and sweet hike will take you to and from the historic Old Fort Point, with parts of it running next to the beautiful Athabasca River.
-
Bighorn Alley Trail: This trail takes visitors on a 1-2 hour hike to the Annette and Edith Lakes. Find out more info on the local Jasper hikes here.
Once back at the highway it is about 20 minutes to the take out. There are more sections of rapids but also a flat section to enjoy and learn about the natural surroundings.
All trips are in 8-person rafts with a licensed river guide. Not suitable for children under 5 years of age.
Tour departs from the RV Parking Lot in Jasper, AB, located next to the Jasper Home Building Center (706 Sleepy Hollow Road). Please arrive 15 minutes early and look for blue or yellow school buses with yellow rafts on the trailer.
We were staying at Fairmont Jasper Park Lodge and had worked up an appetite whitewater rafting. We ate at the in-hotel restaurant Nook Steakhouse for dinner.
Although I've eaten plenty of wild game in my day, I'm not a big fan of it.
But I decided to get brave that night and order the bison tenderloin.
I wasn't disappointed. It had been prepared properly so had no "gamey" taste to it.
John had the beef tenderloin and said it was perfectly done.
The Nook serves steaks and seafood.
Bison tenderloin
day 4
Day 4's schedule included traveling the Icefields Parkway to Banff - about a 3 hour trip. You'd want to have your camera on hand for this one because the scenery is unbelievable! The following video will give you an idea of what you'll see.
A private guided tour of the Icefields Highway during our transport to Banff was included in our train fare. Upon arriving in Banff we settled into the Fairmont Banff Springs Hotel and had the rest of the day after the tour to ourselves.
We decided to take a 3 hour covered wagon tour along the Bow River as John loved anything western. The tour included a steak dinner.
John even got to practice his roping skills! It actually cost us less to do this tour than buying dinner in one of the hotel restaurants and John enjoyed it far more.
day 5
We had 3 options to tour Banff that were included in our rail package:
-
Banff Sightseeing Tour with Gondola and Cruise
-
Banff E-Bike Tour
-
Yoho National Park and Lake Louise Tour
We elected to take the Sightseeing tour with gondola and cruise. I don't know who VIA Rail booked this tour through but here's one like the one we took: Heading up the Banff Gondola to the peak of Sulphur Mountain before completing the day with a historical tour at Lake Minnewanka. The tour also included a light lunch.
THE GONDOLA
Enjoy 360 degree views of the Canadian Rocky Mountain as you ride an 8-passenger gondola and take in the breathtaking views of Banff National Park. Continue on up the mountain and ride the Mount Standish Chairlift that will take you to the Standish Viewpoint Platform. Experience your surroundings from the highest sightseeing elevation in the Banff and Lake Louise area at 7,875ft (2,400m).
Mount Assiniboine
Stroll along the paths to get closer views of the three high-alpine lakes and jaw dropping view of Mt. Assiniboine, "the Matterhorn of the Canadian Rockies".
Lake Minnewanka Boat Tour
Very relaxing and our guides were both informative and funny. I was glad we'd chosen this option. While the scenery was beautiful, after awhile if you've seen one mountain you've seen em all and my interest in Banff was beginning to wane. I can only look at so many mountains...
OTHER THINGS TO SEE & DO IN BANFF
Soak in the Banff Upper Hot Springs
Relax and rejuvenate in the steamy, mineral-rich waters of the Banff Upper Hot Springs. Perched on the side of Sulphur Mountain, these natural hot springs serve as a soothing retreat with their historic spa and bathhouse. These hot springs open year-round for the ideal place to unwind after a day of mountain adventures. Enjoy a warm respite here against the backdrop of snow-capped peaks, with comfortable soaking temperatures in the hot springs ranging from 37°C to 40°C (98°F to 104°F).
Attend a festival or event
Banff's vibrant cultural scene includes festivals and events throughout the year. From the Banff Mountain Film and Book Festival to the SnowDays Festival, there's always something here to celebrate that showcases the spirit of the mountains and the creativity of the community. Visitors can also enjoy the Banff Summer Arts Festival, which brings a variety of performances, concerts, and art exhibitions to the park.
Take a scenic flight
For a bird's-eye view of Banff's grandeur, a scenic flight is an unforgettable experience. Helicopter and small plane tours provide a unique perspective on the park's vast wilderness, soaring over peaks, glaciers, and lakes that seem to stretch into infinity. These flights give you a chance to see remote areas of the park, making it a once-in-a-lifetime opportunity to view otherwise inaccessible spaces.
As far as food goes, Banff is a foodie's dream come true, boasting over 100 restaurants and every cuisine imaginable. However, dining is pricey in Banff.
We opted for Waldhaus for dinner because it was only a short walk from the hotel.
Nestled in the woods above the Bow and Spray rivers, you will find the Bavarian cottage-style Waldhaus Restaurant. Feast on a hearty menu featuring authentic Alpine cuisine, including Schnitzel and Fondue, in an atmosphere reminiscent of an old hunting cottage.
Dark wood paneling, a large fireplace, and a beautiful wine cabinet housing an excellent wine selection, set the tone for a memorable dining experience in our "House in the Forest".
We loved the cottage atmosphere, the food was good as was the service.
Day 6
We traveled back along the Icefields Highway to return to Jasper National Park.
Our train fare included 2 options:
-
Private transfer to Jasper
-
Six Glaciers Helicopter and Ice Fields Tour
We'd both seen enough glaciers and mountains so we took the private transfer back to Jasper as we wanted to explore the town more.
We stopped at Candy Bear's Lair to stock up on some sweets to take with us on the train.
The store makes a variety of traditional sweets as well as handmade fudge and ice creams.
We also discovered a funky little restaurant called Evil Dave's Grill so grabbed a cheeseburger - 6 oz all beef patty, toasted bun, arugula, red onion, pickles, gochujang aioli and side of fries.
We were told try the Malevolent Meatloaf -
Bison and wild boar bacon meatloaf with chef's potatoes and vegetables, house made gravy - but we just wanted a sandwich.
Sadly. many of Jasper's restaurants have closed due to the fire.
After lunch we just wandered around the town some more and stumbled on Jasper's community garden.
Evil Dave's cheeseburger
Visitor's were free to walk in and look around at what Jasper residents were growing. It was quite a garden for a town as tiny as Jasper is - or was.
We capped off our last night in Jasper with dinner at Jasper Pizza Place.
We come from an area noted for having the best pizza in the country so we're tough to please when it comes to pizza. We ordered the wood fired King of New York - Capocollo, Pancetta, Genoa salami, Basil, Fiore Di Latte and tomato sauce.
It didn't disappoint! Residents had told us they had the best pizza in town and they were right.
Evil Dave's cheeseburger
Evil Dave's cheeseburger
day 7
Back to the Jasper train depot and we boarded the train to continue our journey, leaving the Canadian Rockies behind us. We headed toward Edmonton and Winnipeg.
The Canadian stops at the following stations:
-
Vancouver, BC
-
Kamloops, BC
-
Jasper, AB
-
Edmonton, AB
-
Saskatoon, SK
-
Winnipeg, MB
-
Sioux Lookout, MB
-
Sudbury Junction, ON
-
Toronto, ON
For the remainder of the trip it's basically get from Point A to Point B, Toronto. Any stops are brief and just give you enough time to stretch your legs.
There are basically 3 areas to hang out on the train: Your suite, the Park Car lounge and bar, and the Skyline Dome Car. Or you could hang out in the gaming car and play board games.
Since you have access to the two panoramic observation decks available on the train, the probability of you having a chance to sit down and enjoy the 360-degree views of your surroundings on your way across Canada increases dramatically. This is a big deal, especially in the Rockies, where it seems as though almost everyone wants to grab a seat in the scenic dome section. The seats are on a first-come, first-served basis so depending on the ambitions of your fellow travelers, you may be out of luck if your timing isn't right. Luckily, most people come and go, especially during meal times, when there is a steady rotation of seats as people head to the Dinner Car.
The upper observation deck of the Park Car
Downstairs in the 2 Park Cars are 2 lounges serviced by the bar.
I found the Bullet Lounge a quieter place to hang out when the dome cars were hopping, even though the seats face toward the center of the car.
The Bullet Lounge is also where you can get coffee, tea, juices, fruit, cookies, muffins, etc. should you get hungry between meals.
I noticed as we were leaving the Rockies behind, passengers were all looking to see moose.
We'd seen elk, big horn sheep...just about everything but moose.
Elk
Big horn sheep
Always the practical joker, hubby decided to remedy the no moose problem with a shower gift I'd bought in Gastown...
His prank served as an ice breaker among everyone and we connected with a very nice couple from the Netherlands, Pieter and Anka - which made the trip even more enjoyable as we ate meals together and did other activities together.
day 8
We entered the Prairie provinces — Saskatchewan, Alberta and Manitoba. They're dotted with rustic barns and small farming towns so reminded me very much of southern Wisconsin - save for the bison herds.
What I found interesting traveling through the prairie provinces is that people from these small farming communities would come out to wave at the train as we passed by. Not a handful of people, more like 30 or more people! I think the whole farming town emptied out to wave at the train in some cases.
day 9
Sometime during the night we crossed into Ontario and are traveling through the Canadian Shield.
The Canadian Shield is a broad region of Precambrian rock (pictured in shades of red) that encircles Hudson Bay. It spans eastern, northeastern, and east-central Canada and the upper midwestern United States.
Lots of lakes and fishing cabins perched on small islands.
One of the VIA employees reported spotting moose and bear is frequent in the Shield so everyone is back at the windows with their cameras in their quest to photograph the elusive moose.
Including Pieter and Anka.
I guess they only have moose in Natuurpark Lelystad, which Pieter says is like one of our wildlife preserves. But moose aren't native to the Netherlands.
They want to see bear too as Pieter explained bear went extinct in the Netherlands over a century ago so now can only be seen in a zoo called Ouwehands Dierenpark, which is a constructed bear forest within the zoo.
John told them "Then you should come visit us. We have bear everywhere, even one whose den is in our backyard."
They seemed shocked to hear this and that I used to help raise baby bear cubs. It became the topic of conversation at breakfast - quiche with hash browns.
They did eventually see some moose and bear so all of the passengers were happy. In talking with one of the VIA guys he told me that occasionally the train has a run-in with moose on the tracks. I could believe that as it happened in Wyoming when a moose decided to charge the train. (Moose aren't exceptionally bright having very small brains for their size.)
day 10
Our journey was coming to an end as we arrived in Toronto and we checked into the Fairmont Hotel downtown. We'd decided to stay an extra day in Toronto rather than depart to fly home the next morning, which worked out well since Pieter and Anka were spending a couple of days in Toronto as well.
They'd never seen Niagra Falls (John and I both had from the American side) so we booked a tour for the 4 of us. We didn't want to spend 9 hours at the Falls so booked a 2.5 hour tour that included a ride on Maid of the Mist boat that takes you right up to the Falls. (You get just as wet on the Canadian side!)
Unlike the U.S. side of the Falls where you're surrounded by an urban environment, the Canadian side is more surrounded by nature.
HOW TO GET FROM DOWNTOWN TORONTO TO NIAGRA FALLS
Niagara Falls is easily accessible from Toronto. There are 4 main options to get to Niagara Falls from Toronto, the first of which is to hire a car from Toronto Airport or Downtown. This gives you the freedom to explore at your own pace and allows you to spend longer at Niagara Falls.
Niagara is accessible by public transport but it’s not the easiest route.
The GO Train and ViaRail Train go from the upper-level tracks of Union Station but run on a seasonal schedule. From the Niagara Falls train station, it’s over 2 miles (3.5km) to the falls – a 45-minute walk.
Buses also run the route, but the bus stops are located outside the main Niagara Falls area. The easiest way to get to Niagara Falls by bus is to take the Megabus. This is a fast and cheap option, however the bus stop is outside the train station, so you’ll have the same long walk to do.
If you don’t hire a car, we’d recommend booking onto a day tour. There are plenty of tour companies offering day trips to Niagara Falls from Toronto with a range of tours so you can choose the one that best fits your interests and budget. Tours can also include other stops in the surrounding area, like Niagara-on-the-Lake and local wineries, and provide really informative commentary too.
Alternatively, you could book a Toronto Airport Private Transfer from Niagara Falls. This is a great option for those who are transiting through Toronto or tourists on a tight schedule.
However, there's also a shared shuttle service that runs between downtown Toronto and Niagra Falls that's door-to-door.
From Niagra Falls we took an 11 minute walk to the Skywheel and rode it. Rides currently cost $15 CDN per adult, $7 DCN per child. The Skywheel towers 175' above the Falls, there is audio narration in the enclosed cars and the ride lasts 8 minutes.
You will have views of the Horseshoe Falls, American Falls, the Niagara River and other landmarks.
From the Skywheel to the Skylon Tower (revolving restaurant) was another 10 minute walk but we wanted to eat lunch there.
The most celebrated Niagara Falls restaurant in Canada, The Skylon Tower, offers two great levels of fine dining, both 775 feet above the Falls! Choose from te legendary Revolving Dining Room Restaurant and savor award-winning continental cuisine, or select the family-affordable Summit Suite Buffet Dining Room restaurant.
The Skylon Tower is Niagara Falls’ best dining value with ‘Early Dinner’ specials. As an added bonus, admission to the Ride-to-the-Top and Observation Decks attractions is always FREE when dining.
The Revolving Dining is an extraordinary experience. The restaurant silently rotates 360 degrees every hour, giving diners a constantly changing vantage point. It is estimated that more than 125 km are viewable from the dining room. It is the most breathtaking view in all of Niagara Falls.
We were only stopping for lunch so Pieter and Anka elected to have the Summit Suite buffet, which was more reasonably priced and fine with us.
There was a good selection to choose from and the food was good. Not stellar, but good. Buffet menu
We did make the trip up to the observation deck but it was very windy up there so we didn't stay long.
We'd seen all Pieter and Anka wanted to see of the Falls so took the shuttle back to the hotel and agreed to meet up again for dinner later that evening.
For dinner we tried a place recommended to us called 1 Kitchen for something different.
I loved the ambiance of the place...a glass-walled conservatory-like space with a vaulted wood ceiling and curved trusses hung with greenery.
1 Kitchen Toronto serves up fresh, local, and sustainably sourced farm-to-table cuisine.
There's a juice bar at the front counter - at lower left.
They also have a patio area called the Garden Pavillion where ingredients are grown to use in dishes.
Juice bar at front counter
Garden Pavillion
Sustainable design is a pillar of 1 Hotel properties, and this transcends into 1 Kitchen and Flora Lounge. Definitely one of the more unique restaurants I've seen! I felt right at home.
We ordered a charcuterie board of Local Cured Meats, Ontario Cheeses, House-Made Jam, House Pickles, Local Honey, Poached Apple, Mustard as an appetizer.
I ordered a Chicken Parm sandwich and a peach salad of some kind. OMG TO DIE FOR!
The food was absolutely phenomenal.
If you're ever in Toronto, but sure to hit up 1 Kitchen Toronto!
They also have a very popular brunch.
day 11
Our last day in Toronto and with Pieter and Anke. We decided to take in Kensington Market and Chinatown as Anke was in a shopping mood.
I recommend this self-guided audio tour. This audio tour is super easy to use. Once you book the tour, you’ll be able to download an app that also has a map and location tracking to ensure that you can access the right info at the right time.
The first thing that you should probably know about Kensington Market is that it’s technically a neighborhood, not a standalone market. The “market” spans an entire block of streets, and so in addition to stalls and pop-ups, you’ve also got permanent grocery stores, delis, vintage shops, and cute boutiques that all form part of the ecosystem.
I loved it because it was so BOHO.
Kensington Market is open 7 days a week. However, every shop, bar, and restaurant sets its own hours, so not everything is open all of the time. Still, if you come by during the afternoon, most things will be open. Between 11 am and 7 pm is considered the best time to go there and shop. Skip Mondays because many of the businesses are closed on Mondays.
If you're into thrift and vintage shopping, then you definitely want to check out Courage My Love.
You can find an eclectic range of vintage finds here, and it’s housed in a super charming Victorian house. It’s also easy to spot because you can't miss the turquoise exterior.
Urban Catwalk is known for being friendly and reasonably priced, while Exile is great if you want to thrift fashion items like Levi jeans, fur coats, and counter-culture clothing. Meanwhile, Shoney’s is less curated, but super cheap, so if you’re not afraid of spending a while sifting through, there are some great bargains to be had there.
If you've got kids in tow then be sure to check out Bellevue Square Park. Kids can enjoy the splash pool and playground, and there’s also an outdoor gym. Or grab some food from one of the booths or restaurants and have a picnic lunch there.
Kensington Market is a 20-minute walk from Downtown/Old Toronto, so it’s easy to walk there if you’re staying in that part of the city.
It’s also easy to take the streetcar to Kensington Market. The market is well-connected to the city’s public transport system, so you’ve got a couple of options here.
If you’re coming from Spadina Station, you can take the 510 Spadina streetcar southbound to Baldwin Street. You can also take the 505 Dundas streetcar/bus westbound from St. Patrick Station to Spadina Ave, or the eastbound 505 from Dundas West Station to Denison Ave.
From Queen’s Park Station, you can get the 506 College streetcar westbound to Augusta Ave, and there’s also the Bathurst Streetcar from Bathurst Station to College Street. So basically, you can travel here via streetcar or bus from all over the city.
Parking around Kensington Market is limited, so I don’t recommend driving there. Walking is the best way but using public transport is also easy and convenient if you don’t want to walk.
Chinatown is right next to Kensington Market.
The best way to enjoy Chinatown is simply to explore it on foot, popping into the many stores, herbal remedy shops, cafes, restaurants, and produce markets that line the area.
Honestly, I was underimpressed by Toronto's Chinatown...maybe because I'd already been to San Fransisco's Chinatown that screams Chinatown, whereas I didn't get that impression from Toronto's Chinatown. Still, it was interesting to look around.
We wanted something different for dinner so went to Chubby's Jamaican Kitchen, noted for its Jerk Chicken, which takes 4 days to make. Each bird is brined for 24 hours, dry-rubbed, laced with scotch bonnet peppers, and left to dry before getting barbecued over maple wood. It's served with Chubby's coleslaw - Carrot, candy cane beets, red onion, pickled mustard seed.
I'd never really tried Jamaican food before but I'm hooked. I could've made a meal just out of Chubby's kale and pomegranate with goat cheese salad alone!
day 12
Time to say goodbye to Canada.
We'd had a wonderful trip and met 2 lifelong friends in the process. I've been to Canada 3 times now and I swear I love it more every time I visit the country. I think being able to see parts of Canada, (especially the Rockies) that one can only see by train made me fall in love with the country even more.
If there was anything I could change about the trip? I'd have VIA Rail offer more stops where one could explore the Canadian cities and make it less "Get from Point A to Point B" after leaving Jasper and Banff.
budget friendly alternative
G Adventures offers an 8 day express trip from Calgary to Vancouver called The Canadian Rockies Express. Price starts at $2172 per person. However, this is a group tour so if you want your own private hotel room then add $1739.00. Also, only 5 breakfasts and 1 lunch are included. Their website says add $315 to $410 for meals not included but I question that price given the cost of dining out in Canada, even if you're not going to top notch restaurants.
All 7 nights are spent in hotels, this is not a sleeper train trip. However, the trip did get very positive customer reviews.
You can see the trip itinerary here
